The week started off with beautiful weather and little in the way of waves.
As we head into the weekend we find rain, strong winds and a rising swell on tap.
This increase in swell is mainly due to a squeeze in the air pressures between the Tasman and Coral seas.
This pressure differential increases the winds offshore and increases the swell.
Smart surfers won’t despair at the wind.
They’ll head for the sheltered corners for fun waves.
It should be mentioned that all swells are dependent on consistent winds and in this case, that’s a bit “iffy” at present.
With that in mind, take your time to study the surf and see how the average of waves are affected by tide and time.
Here’s the picture.
Agnes Water to Coolangatta
The fourth straight day of fresh to strong southeast/east winds will have brought the surf up to about 1.5m.
Most beaches will be too rough and rippy but the points will be loving it. All surfers should watch the rips and currents.
Winds will get on it before mid-morning and we can expect east to southeast winds to 25 knots through the day.
Cloudy conditions due to the moisture laden sea breeze will yield rain on and off through the day.
The high temperature will be 21C.
The Gold Coast is near the bottom of the window for this swell but waves will still be in the 1.5m range there too.
Persistent fresh to strong southeast winds will continue, with a steady 20/25 knots expected.
Forget the beaches and head for the points where far cleaner conditions will prevail.
All surfers should be aware that an established northerly current is associated with this swell, including rips and surprise sets.
Top temperature will be 21C and rain is an 80 per cent chance.
Yet another blustery day with early east to southeast winds up to 25 knots is expected.
The swell won’t drop at all, if this wind holds true, and it’s looking likely that it will.
Forget the beaches and head again to the protected points and corners where waves in the 1.5m range will persist.
Rips, currents and surprise sets are all still present, so be on your guard.
Rain is only a 50 per cent chance and the high temperature will be 23C under partly cloudy skies.
Gold Coast surfers will have sightly easing winds but they will still wreck the surf on the open beaches.
Southeast to east winds of 15 to 20 knots are going to force the crew to the points.
Once again the swell will be strong, about 1.5m with rips and currents, so be aware and be cautious.
The odd shower is possible, with partly cloudy skies and a high temp of 23C.
Our respect and condolences to the friends and family of Gold Coast surfer Nick Slater, taken by a shark this week at Greenmount.
THIS WEEK’S TIP
Tropical cyclones are complex weather systems. They occur during our hot season and can develop anywhere in waters above 26C.
The Australian cyclone season runs from November 1 to April 30.
Our average number of cyclones in a year ranges from nine to 13 with four typically crossing the coast.
These storms can occur anywhere from Western Australia to the Coral Sea as they are highly unpredictable and very mobile.
When the season opens, the Bureau Of Meteorology puts up a seasonal forecast as well as 3-day outlooks.